After initially driving towards Tremadog the ground became wet and so we did a sharp u-turn and headed for Anglesey. The weather was a lot better by the time we arrived at Rhoscolyn and when we eventually got out of the car it was like a pleasant spring day. Dylan was keen as usual: “Let’s go and have a look at Electric Blue.”
Dylan and I had no idea of the tide times, but we were keen as ever. We decided that a warm-up route would be useful before getting on a good climb, and so we decided to climb on Llawder’s Red Wall (Llawder Zawn). I led both pitches of ‘Icarus’ HVS 5a, which climbs a slab and corner. It was difficult to seat the gear well, which required some perseverance, and it eventually become apparent that it was difficult to retrieve the gear too. However, the climbing was good and so this made up for any deviations that were encountered en route.
|Dylan, pitch 2, 'Icarus' HVS 5a|
After climbing ‘Icarus’ we went to reconnoitre ‘Electric Blue’ by abseiling into Sea Cave Zawn. ‘Electric Blue’ is an E4 5c that can be climbed as a deep-water solo. The line follows a fault line above a thought-provoking arch. After inspecting the conditions it became apparent that the tide was out and the start of the climb was dowsed wet, almost in a grease-like state. It was not in condition and so Dylan and I monkeyed back up the abseil rope.
|Sea Cave Zawn|
We were not beaten yet. Instead we scrambled down into ‘Fallen Block Zawn’ as Dylan fancied climbing ‘Centrefold’ E3 5c. However, the bottom of ‘Centrefold' was also dowsed wet, again in a grease-like state. The Gods were against us. We were beaten!
From the wet approach towards Tremadog to the grease-like conditions at Rhoscolyn, it turned into a learning opportunity. It was good to catch up with Dylan and I am already looking forward to getting back outside.