|Craig Dorys (Cilan Head) | Lleyn Peninsula|
Craig Dorys has a maximum height of 45m (150ft). It is made up of a rare mixture of compacted sandstone and shale, which is formed in places as alternate bands. The grit-like sandstone can give good friction, but the crumbly shale should be treated with care. The climbing is therefore serious with guaranteed loose rock and woeful protection. The belays at the top are set well back and are usually fence posts or stakes that should be treated with caution. However, on a positive note, the rock architecture is magnificent to look at and the climbing situations can be memorable.
There are several areas to climb at Craig Dorys (Stigmata Buttress, Craterer Slab, Central Slabs, Byzantium Wall, Little Ug, and the Golden Wall). From the Golden Wall Area, at low tide, it is possible to access Jacuzzi Zawn, which has a natural Jacuzzi in its floor.
For access advice and information about nesting restrictions, see the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) Regional Access Database. For further guidebook information, see the Climbers' Club website.