Craig y Gesail is a wide escarpment that consists of several broken buttresses (Castle Buttress, Bramble Buttress, Sheerline Buttress, Javelin Buttress, Princess Buttress and Midas Buttress). I have climbed on Bramble Buttress in the past and so I could easily locate the top of its buttress, which lies adjacent to Sheerline Butress.
Ben and I began at the top of Sheerline Buttress and abseiled down the line of ‘Plumbline’. Plumbline is said to be excellent climbing on steep rock. I got to lead ‘Plumbline’, which was excellent climbing on steep rock, but it initially required a fight out of a sentry box by using good technique! After climbing ‘Plumbline’ we then abseiled back down to the base of a route called ‘Clutch’. ‘Clutch’ was another good route that initially climbs a groove to then swing out onto a flying arête.
We then walked over to the top of Castle Buttress, set up another abseil, and located the bottom of ‘The Chateau’. From the base of ‘The Chateau’ we climbed both pitches relatively quickly as it was nearing dark. If you like quality VS routes I would definitely recommend Plumbline, Clutch, and The Chateau.
|Ben swinging out onto the flying arete of|
'Clutch', Craig y Gesail, Tremadog