We decided to go for it. At this point the sun had not yet burned though the clouds and the air was slightly breezy, which usually indicates good climbing conditions. I led the first pitch, which was partially intricate, but mostly reasonable, to then handover to Martyn. In recent weeks, Martyn had been climbing well, and this was set to continue.
Meanwhile, the sunlight, being unconcerned as it is, began to creep across the Vector Buttress. Martyn began climbing the second pitch, to then continue in good kilter, climbing the ochre slab like a game of Chess. I followed to meet Martyn at the stance. We were slaying the beast.
Before we’d realized, however, by being totally absorbed in the route, the sun was upon on us. Moment by moment, it was zapping our energy, with our mouths and throats becoming parched. Was the beast slaying us? Looking ahead at the third pitch, it was suddenly blocked by other climbers, who had appeared as if from nowhere. We think they may have been climbing Nimbus/Snake Connection, hence the crossover, but we can’t be sure. As a result, a decision was made and we abseiled off the route. We had not slayed the beast completely.
After rehydrating our souls with snacks and refreshments, we decided to climb One Step in the Clouds as a respite. This completed the day.
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| Martyn Middleton, Ochre Slab, Vector Buttress |