I’ve recently been climbing with Martyn Middleton. We started on a route called ‘Gallop Step’, which takes an arching fault line below the overhangs on Clogwyn y Bustach (North Buttress). It is a unique climb in that it starts and finishes at the foot of the crag! The first pitch was good value, with the crux being a strenuous pull around an arête. The second pitch was also good, but was seeping in several places, which added interest to our climb. Despite my astute impartiality most of the time, I would say Gallop Step is a soft touch HVS, maybe even an easy solo in good conditions if you're going well, but I suppose it’s contingent upon how well you can climb.
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| Martyn, pitch 1, Gallop Step, Clogwyn y Bustach |
First Ascent, Gallop Step: J I Disley, Miss D Morin, 8th January 1956 - Originally graded Severe this fine route really opened people’s eyes to the potential of Clogwyn y Bustach.
We then walked over to Clogwyn y Wenallt and climbed ‘Oxine’. Apparently, Oxine is a hybrid of Oxo and Bovine! Here, the climbing was also good value, especially the top pitch of Oxine/Bovine, which was steep with plenty of handholds, foot placements and gear placements. Apart from the possibility of a snappy hold, the climbing on ‘Oxine’ may be straightforward. It’s probably the best VS in the area. Go grab it!
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| Martyn, pitch 1, Oxo/Oxine, Clogwyn y Wenallt |
Clogwyn y Wenallt is a low-lying valley crag with a beautiful open aspect. From the top of the crag there are picturesque views across Llyn Gwynant and beyond.