Kirkus’s Direct, Craig yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn)

Ben and I decided to head for 'The Great Slab' on Craig yr Ogof, Cwm Silyn. We chose to climb ‘Kirkus’s Direct’ HVS 5b as it is described in the guidebook as ‘a good climb with some exciting, delicate sections.’

Ben led the first two pitches and I led the final crux pitch. Ben was going well and cruised up the first two pitches, despite crossing some damp sections (the sun had not quite beamed its way across the slab at this point).

Meanwhile, I had a parched oesophagus just as the sun crawled its way past the penultimate belay stance! It was my turn to lead. The final pitch was 43m of technical climbing, which weaved its way through some fantastic terrain, to then finish with a crux move near the top! It was absolutely brilliant. Venga!

After both topping out, we couldn’t stop smiling all the way back to the bottom of the crag. We were not quite finished, however, and decided to run back to car in order to keep mountain fit (I am not joking). 

Ben Ryle, pitch 3,  Kirkus's Direct HVS 5b,
Craig yr Ogof (The Great Slab)