Gustav and I initially headed to Carreg Mianog. The steep outcrop lies low on the south-east flank of Carnedd Dafydd. The cliff has two main facets (west buttress & east buttress) with ‘Biceps Wall’ featuring on the east buttress and ‘The Cracked Arête’ featuring on the west buttress. I had climbed ‘The Cracked Arête’ back in 2010, which was a great route and is definitely recommended. Today, however, we were on a mission to climb ‘Biceps Wall’.
‘Biceps Wall’ was a good climb; my left forearm had never been so pumped!! On the first pitch it was awkward to place gear on the initial wall, but it eventually eased off below the roof at mid-height. Pulling over the roof was quite committing, but was good climbing and eventually led up to a cannon stone and belay. From the cannon stone, pitch two climbs a short wall and can be protected with small wires. At the top of the west buttress the surrounding view was outstanding, but by the time I had belayed Gustav up to the top, I had been exposed to the sun for too long and so we decided that it might be best to find some shade for our next climb. We headed back to the car and then on to Ogwen Cottage.
The walk up to Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet) took approximately 15-20mins. Clogwyn y Tarw has a northerly aspect and so at the bottom of the crag we were in the shade - Phew! I decided to lead ‘Yob Route’ which has a sustained 45m pitch and is described in the guidebook as the best of its standard in the valley- Phew!! The route initially climbs a gangway, swings around an arête, and then climbs a steep shallow corner. The steep, shallow corner can be deceiving as gear placements are not obvious until you commit upwards, making this an exhilarating climb. I enjoyed all 45m of 'Yob Route' and it is another climb that is definitely recommended.
|Gustav, 'Yob Route',|
Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet)