Because of the recent bout of high pressure over UK, there were good climbing conditions for early November. Mick and I therefore opted for an early start on Dinas Cromlech. The sun was shining, the rock was dry, and we were able to climb in long-sleeved T-shirts!
Dinas Cromlech, if you have not visited this cliff, consists not only an imposing open-book corner, but also, on its western wing, several other corners. The cliff was originally given the title of ‘Columnar Cliff’ by Menlove Edwards.
Mick and I decided to climb on the western wing and despite a reduction in height relative to the gargantuan open-book corner itself, the climbing was not to be underestimated. It was siege tactics upon the Columnar Cliff!
We started on Noah’s Warning, which was first ascended by Joe Brown in 1951 and was apparently a classic find at that time. The route follows a crack line that splits the middle of a blank wall.
We then went on to climb Pharaoh’s Passage, which initially climbs an overhang, to then ascend a pockmarked wall with an interesting finish. Both Noah’s Warning and Pharaoh’s Passage were good climbs in and of themselves, and good value for their given grades.
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| Andy McQue establishing himself on pitch two of Noah's Warning |
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| Noah's Warning takes the slanting crack line that begins just right of centre |