Glyder Fach Main Cliff

Area: Glyder Fach Main Cliff, Ogwen Valley
Style: Traditional, Multi-Pitch
Aspect: North-West
Rock Type: Rhyolite

The ultimate adventure is to convert the impossible into the feasible. Glyder Fach Main Cliff is an area that upholds tradition, where many famous climbers have converted the impossible into the feasible.

As an initial warm-up, Steve soloed the route of ‘Alpha’, VS 4b, on Alphabet Slab. After this we both went on to climb ‘Lot’s Groove’, HVS 5a **, and ‘Direct Route’, HS 4c ***.

‘Lot’s Groove’ was first climbed by Colin Kirkus in 1929. This is how Colin described it:

"A climb of great severity, including one of the most difficult pitches in Wales. A preliminary inspection on the rope is probably advisable. Skill and confidence are necessary and strong fingers are an asset. The groove is vertical and is both strenuous and delicate. Standard: Very Severe (exceptionally so). Rubbers.
The climb is so named as there must be no looking back."

The other route that we climbed, ‘Direct route’, was first climbed in 1907 and is a classic mountaineering excursion, which boasts a veranda en-route. The best part of the day was sitting on the veranda eating tuna and sweetcorn sandwiches.

Andy McQue, Main Pitch,
Lot's Groove, HVS 5a

Steve Joynson, Final Pitch,
Direct Route HS 4c

Steve Joynson climbing Alpha VS 4b

The view from the veranda